没追会流泪的蓝眼泪 离岛特辑:不一样的海、监狱与潜水胜地

时间:2020-04-27 20:56来源:未知作者:网易彩票登录点击:






A Sea Like No Other




Sits off the southeast coast of Taiwan, Lanyu covers an area of 48 square kilometers. Administratively, the island belongs to Lanyu Township, Taitung County and can be reached by a 2.5-hour ferry ride from Taitung's Fugang Fishing Harbor. Lanyu is known for the unique culture of Tao people, who call their home "Pongso no Tao." As "Tao" means "people," "Pongso no Tao" means "Island of People." Among Taiwan's indigenous tribes, only the Tao have traditionally made their livings off the ocean and developed the culture around flying fish. Breathing with the ebbs and flows of the tides, Lanyu boasts its own rhythm of life.

Circling the island by scooter only takes two hours, while scenic beauty can be found everywhere on the road, highlighted by the blue ocean. Splendid under the sunshine and mysterious in the dark, the ocean expresses its changing mood through vigorous roars or gentle whispers. The trip to Lanyu would be worthwhile even just admiring the sea around the island. Also, welcoming the dawn at Tungching Bay, snorkeling or soaking in the water at Tungching Secret Spot, strolling and gazing at the sea at Green Green Grassland, or watching the sunset at Tiger Head Slope, are all worth a visit.

And of course, the island also offers delicious seafood. Lanyu Driftwood Restaurant in Yuren Village is especially recommended, from flying fish roe risotto to Yu-xian-yu-si (taro smoothie) , are all mouth-watering delicacies that would make you want to visit Lanyu over and over again.

※ As the Tao people lead a life following traditional customs with certain taboos, visitors should look it up online and follow the rules. (by Wen Liu)

位于台湾东南方外海上的兰屿,全岛面积约 48 平方公里,行政区划分在台东县兰屿乡,从台东富冈渔港搭船约2.5小时可以到达,因其独特的原住民达悟族文化而著名。在达悟族语中,兰屿称作「Pongso no Tao」,达悟族的「Tao」,在族语中是「人」的意思,「Pongso no Tao」就是「人的岛」。达悟族是全台湾原住民中,唯一以渔业为生的族群,以飞鱼为核心开展的文化,离不开海的兰屿,有着属于自己的生活节奏。


骑机车环绕兰屿一圈,只需要两个小时,路上每一处风景都有大海——白日是灿烂夺目、大声喧哗的海,夜晚是深沉静谧、碎碎细语的海,可以说光是能看到兰屿的海,这趟旅行就值得也不为过。而除了大片的海之外,像是可以看日出的「东清湾」、可以浮潜、泡水的「东清祕境」,适合散步、看海的「青青大草原」,或是观赏日落的「虎头 坡」等,也都是值得造访的景点。

兰屿岛上连食物也离不开海,特别推荐渔人部落「兰屿漂流木餐厅」,无论是奶油飞鱼卵炖饭,还是芋仙芋死 ( 芋头冰沙 ) 都是美味到半夜想起会饿到哭的美食,啊,我真的可以去一百次兰屿!

※ 达悟族仍依循传统生活,有许多禁忌与注意事项,想体验兰屿的海的朋友请务必于造访前上网查询并尽力遵守喔!(文/刘玟苓)




From A Place of Exile To Diving Hotspot

Green Island, the fourth-largest offshore island of Taiwan, was a place where political opponents of the regime were confined during the martial law period. The former prison camp, also known as Oasis Villa, has been transformed into the National Human Rights Museum—Green Island White Terror Memorial Park in 2002 and open to the public as an important portal to an understanding of Taiwan's history.

Moving beyond the somber past, Green Island now draws numerous tourists with diving and snorkeling, its natural beauty, and local delicacies. The gray peanut tofu is one of the most representative foods of the island. Simply dip it with soy sauce, one can truly taste its gritty texture and a slightly burnt fragrance. Fish rice dumpling is another delicious choice one shouldn't miss. Different from the pork rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves of the island of Taiwan, Green Island's rice dumplings are stuffed with tuna fish and wrapped in shell ginger leaves. If you'd like to have a bite, visit Chunxia Eatery to taste these dishes.

Green Island is also one of the six diving hotspots in Taiwan. In the crystal clear blue ocean, divers can admire tropical fish and spectacular coral reefs. And if you're lucky, you may even dive with sea turtles and giant oceanic manta rays. In summer nights, one can also join the eco-friendly nighttime or intertidal zone tour organized by Caring for Green Island by Cutting Carbon Emissions (facebook.com/journeyvillage). Green Island even has one of the planet's only three underwater volcanic hot springs. At Zhaori Hot Springs, you may greet the sunrise in the morning, as well as enjoy soaking in hot pools while listening to the sound of waves and gazing into the starry sky at night. However, on Green Island surrounded by the sea, one can have a perfectly relaxing day by just sitting in a pavilion and reading a book over some coffee. (by Jolin Lin)

绿岛,台湾的第四大离岛,在戒严时期为羁 押政治犯的囚禁地,曾为监狱的「绿洲山庄」 在 2002 年转型成「国家人权博物馆─白色恐 怖绿岛纪念园区」对外开放,是认识台湾历 史非常重要的入口。


走过伤痛,绿岛现在以潜水活动、自然生态 与在地美食吸引许多游客造访。绿岛的特色 饮食,以「花生豆腐」最具代表性,灰色的 花生豆腐拥有粗犷的颗粒感,吃来多了一股 独有的醇厚焦香,直接沾少许酱油膏食用, 最能品尝出火山岩地形孕育出的花生滋味。 另外,「鱼粽」也是不能错过的选择,有别 于本岛的肉粽以竹叶制作,鱼粽以月桃叶制 作,内馅也从猪肉换成鲔鱼,月桃的清香搭 配鲔鱼的鲜美,意外的清爽美味,若想品尝 可到「春霞小吃部」试试。

绿岛的海域是台湾六大潜点之一,宝石般 透明的蓝色海水中,可以观赏热带鱼与壮 观的珊瑚礁,幸运的话还能遇见海龟与鬼蝠 魟。此外,岛上还有许多特有种生物,夏夜 可以预约「减碳爱绿岛」 (facebook.com/ journeyvillage) 提供的生态友善夜游与潮间 带导览;绿岛更拥有全世界唯三的海底火山 温泉,清晨可在「朝日温泉」迎接日出,夜 晚也能听着阵阵海浪声,边赏星空边泡汤, 相当享受。不过在 360 度都看得到海的绿 岛,不用特地做什么,只要带一杯咖啡、选 一个视野顺眼的凉亭、配一本想看许久的书, 就能度过完美的一天。 ( 文 / 林苡秀 )



The dreamlike blue color that glows on the surface of the seas around Matsu in spring and summer is rarely seen anywhere in the world. It has a beautiful name: the Blue Tears. People who visit Matsu especially for the experience of the Blue Tears are called "tear chasers." Blue Tears is actually bioluminescence emitted by Noctiluca scintillans, a kind of marine plankton. While observing Blue Tears first-hand requires an element of luck, for many years, a large number of tear-chasing forerunners and specialists have accumulated a wealth of in-the- field experience which I will now share with everyone.

Tear chasing times:

The approximate time period when the Matsu Blue Tears phenomenon occurs begins in March and continues until September each year. Many people agree that the best time to view the phenomenon is from May to June, while some locals maintain that the Blue Tears are in full bloom during July and August. It is worth noting, though, that heavy fog around the time of the Dragon Boat Festival causes frequent groundings of commercial flight, and summer holidays are the peak travel season. As such, September may well be the most comfortable choice for a tear-chasing flight.




Regarding accommodations:

During tear-chasing peak season, it is advisable to seek accommodations in a hostel. You can exchange information with the people you meet around because eight or nine out of ten camera- toting travelers will be there to chase the Blue Tears. Furthermore, various accommodations owners purportedly have a chat group on the LINE app exclusively for sharing information about the status of Blue Tears around each of the various islands, making it convenient for travelers, upon checking in, to discern exactly which island (s) currently have the greatest Blue Tears blooms. I strongly suggest that you check with the owner/operator of your guesthouse for the most up-to-date Blue Tears information.

Photography tips:

1. Camera equipment must have manual shutter settings which allow shutter to be held open at length

2. A sufficiently stable camera stand is required

3. Wide angle or telephoto lense is recommended, with the largest aperture possible (recommended settings, to be adjusted according to circumstances: ISO value 1600 to 6400, aperture focal ratio 2.8 to 4, shutter exposure 15 to 30 seconds, color temperature approximately 2500 to 3500K)

Recommended observation and photography spots:

For first-time tear chasers, it is recommended to go to the Beihai Tunnel as the odds are very good that Blue Tears will be visible from this vantage point. If you choose an outdoor observation spot such as along the coast or at a military stronghold, street lamps are rare to non-existent, making them ideal for photography. Also, remember to avoid the moonlight, especially during a full moon. Good luck, tear chasers!


# Tanghoudao Beach on Beigan island # Fuzheng Beach on Dongju island

# Kunqiu Beach on Xiju island


# Fuao Harbor on Nangan island

# Meng'ao Harbor on Dingju island

High points along the coasts:

# Dahan Stronghold on Nangan island

# Caipuao on Xiju island

# Mysterious Little Bay on Dongju island


追泪的高峰时间可选择入住背包客栈,看到其他带摄影机来的旅客,十之八九是来追泪的旅人,可以互相交换资讯。另外据说民宿业者有个LINE群,在追泪期间像是情报中心一样交换各岛泪况,方便知道当天「蓝眼泪 大爆发」的岛,提供给入住旅客,建议大家多与民宿老板询问最新泪况。


1. 相机需能调整手动快门,可长时间曝光

2. 稳定度够高的脚架

3. 镜头建议使用广角或是望远镜头,光圈越大越好(建议数值,ISO:1600-6400,光圈: 2.8-4,曝光时间15-30 秒,适情况调整,色温约2500-3500K)


初次追泪的人,建议到赏泪机率极高的「北 海坑道」。若到户外景点如海岸边、军事据点等,几乎都没有路灯,相当适合拍摄。另外记得避开月光,尤其满月时间。祝大家追泪成功!


# 北竿塘后道沙滩 # 东莒福正沙滩

# 西莒坤坵沙滩


# 南竿福澳港

# 东莒猛澳码头


# 南竿大汉据点

# 西莒菜埔澳

# 东莒神祕小海湾



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